An Overdue Journey to Jacmel

As the plane was crossing over the island water’s my eyes began to fill with tears as I thought of the many Haitians that died in these very same waters. On their pursuit for what they thought would be a better quality of life. My thoughts shifted to the life that I momentarily left behind and the struggles that go on there in comparison...this brought even more tears to my eyes.

Once we landed we had a driver pick us up from the airport in Port au Prince. The Charter plane to Jacmel was currently out of commission. As we drove through the capital I noticed the people on the streets of Port au Prince (appeared as busy the people on the streets of New York except their attire was different. This was a place where truly organic food items replaced briefcases. There was a definite hustle and bustle going on here. In my opinion even those who did not have much to do found a way to keep busy with the hopes of bringing in some sort of income as means of survival.

Along the way we stopped and had a bite to eat at what I call a roadside eatery or should I say shack. Just beneath the grill was the laziest looking dog staring up at me. This dog took residence beneath the grill where all the savory meats were roasting. There were roosters and baby goats moving about freely where we were seated. Of course it wouldn’t be an outdoor eating event without the flies. I thought to myself if my Grandmother is willing to eat here than I too can eat here.

I geared myself up to eat my meal with a hint of reluctance lingering behind. It was that reluctance that caused me to over examine the food as I ate. The food was surprisingly delicious, perhaps only surprising to me... Once we left and continued on our journey to Jacmel I kept expecting some sort of food sickness to hit me but, luckily it never did.

It took roughly 3 hours to get to the Southern city of Haiti called Jacmel with all our stops along the way. Jacmel is considered the cultural capital of Haiti. I read that the city had not changed much since the 19th century. Back then the town was inhabited by wealthy coffee merchants and traders, who lived in what was described as gracious mansions that adorned the town. It was these mansions that would later influence the home structure of many of the homes built in New Orleans and Savannah. The architecture of Jacmel is believed to have been influenced from the French so much so that the cast iron pillars and balconies were purchased in France. Jacmel's appearance is that of a little European town.

In the city most of the homes are built with office below and homes situated above. Here you can practically sleep with your doors open and everyone knows everyone. My cousin joked that she could not date anyone in town for they are all perhaps related somehow.

The home that I resided in during my stay in Jacmel was surrounded by local convenient type stores that were owned by our family and have been for over 100 years. My accommodations were interesting; there was no power until the evening. There was no running water so you were unable to wash your hands and take showers unless the maid fetches water for you. You couldn’t flush the toilet with just the touch of a lever, something we take for granted in America. Everyday water life consists of water buckets. However, every home in Haiti is not like this. It was just like this where I happen to be staying in the city. I had other relatives whose homes had running water but, the water pressure was a bit lower than I was accustomed to.

The mornings seem to start off with Roosters sounding off along with 4 different conversations going from neighboring houses. I kept asking myself could I get use to living here, would I like it on a long term basis. I often saw dogs roaming freely; I thought I was seeing the same dog everywhere I went but it wasn’t. They all look the same, a dog with caramel colored coat. The family cat had eyes and a face that resembled a person...no seriously. It had the longest teeth and claws that I have ever seen on a domesticated cat, very vampire and I guess tiger like. Everywhere you went there were pigs, donkeys, cows and goats roaming about as if they did not belong to anyone. I asked my cousin Chantalé can anyone just take whatever animal they see roaming about. She informed me that everyone knows what animal belongs to whom. I never got around to asking her exactly how.

Honestly my family appeared to want for nothing here, they appeared stress free. I truly envied their way of life for that. I hardly hand to spend money. I think it was a way for relatives to show you that they are doing well and they can treat you as the guest that you truly are. There were however, maids and helpers that often try to corner you and ask for U.S dollars from time to time.

I could tell that the city of Jacmel was once a truly beautiful city. However, with time and lack of resources it is no longer the beauty it once was from what my family tells me. It is now a town filled with pollution from the city life of the merchants and so forth. You have to go to the outskirts to capture the beauty that Jacmel still posses.